08-01-2006, 10:29 AM
I got some good advice from a very helpful person at my local brewshop (http://www.arborwine.com). I was going to pick up a can of John Bull Hopped Brown Ale because I thought it would be the easiest without having to cook anything and I would be able to follow the simple directions that came with the e-z caps. Half a can without any sugars would work for two 2-liter bottles, but I was told an open can would not last for more than a week. I may try this method in the future unless the one he suggested below is unbelievable. The can of John Bull costs $16.00 with yeast and hops included and would make 2 gallons or approximately 4 liters.For a 1 gallon batch (approximately two 2-liter bottles), he suggested a 1-pound bag of Muntons spray malt (pale, amber or dark depending on what you are making), 1/2 or 1 whole package of ale yeast, 2/5 of an ounce of hops (1/5 bittering and 1/5 finishing). These ingredients cost $12.75 to make 2 gallons or approximately 4 liters (That would include two bags of malt, 1 ounce package of hops, and 1 package of yeast). You could add other ingredients based on what kind of beer you would like. For example I will place an 1/8oz of chocolate malt in a hopping bag until my pot begins to boil and then remove it. And I may add a cup of coffee to one of my bottles after adding the wort. I like this method because I am not making someone else's beer but my own depending on how I experiment and alter it. I can also make 1 gallon batches of different beers all at the same time while experimenting and not be stuck with 5 gallons of something that I really screwed up. The only drawback is the cooking time for each batch.Here are the basic cooking directions: (Of course follow the directions for pitching the yeast on your yeast packet and sanitize everything). 1. Boil the water 2. Add mash and bittering hops and boil for 45 minutes (Watch and stir) 3. Add the finishing hops for 10 to 15 minutes and boil. 4. Cool covered pot quickly in an ice bath in your sink. 5. Poor yeast and the wort (when cooled to a temperature your yeast will survive in) into your bottles. 6. Ferment for 7 days and then clarify.On the other hand, my cider is coming along nicely. I am going to begin calrifying a different bottle every 2 days starting after the fourth day of fermentation to see which alcohol level I like the best. Several of my sarsaparilla bottles have began to get firm (one is very hard) and one does not seem to be much firmer after about 3 days. The directions state 4 to 6 days to carbonate, so I will see what will happen. I will update my results.--- In E-Z-Caps@yahoogroups.com, ""Willum"" wrote:>> On the Sasparilla, patience. Check it daily, might take a couple> days since it has no nutrients. While you are at the brew shop> picking up ale yeast, etc. ask them about fermentation time and> clarifying. I've made very little beer, so I dont want to lead you> astray. Trust your experts. Have fun with it!>>> --- In E-Z-Caps@yahoogroups.com, ""eezzcap"" eezzcap@ wrote:> >> >> > Ok I have some cider fermenting with the e-z caps and e-z cap yeast> for> > 24 hours. The botlles are firm and it looks like it is going well.> I> > also have some sarsaparilla carbonating using regular bottle caps> and> > champagne yeast. I followed the directions extremely carefully and> used> > a digital thermometer when pitching the yeast. The sarsaparilla> bottles> > are not firm yet. Is this a problem? Should I try the e-z cap yeast> > next time?> >> &gORGINAL POSTER: eezzcap