I made a stout following the directions with the spray malt that Ilisted the other day and began fermenting it today. It had an initialstarting potential alcohol percentage of 4% (1.030 initial specificgravity) which worries me that there will not be much alcohol in thefinished product. My Sarsaparilla had the same starting gravity.Although I tasted the sample that I used to measure the starting gravityand it tasted just like a Guiness without carbonation. So hopefully itwill at least taste right if there is a low alcohol content. It is hardto drink enough stout to get drunk of of anyway. I used chocolate maltfor both bottles and put 1 cup of 7-11 dark roast coffee into one of thebottles. I did have to add some water to top off each bottle and I lefta little sediment and some liquid in the bottom of my cooking pot.AFter a couple of hours the bottles are brewing nicely and there is anadditional deposit in the bottom of each bottle. I saw that theinstructions in the files section for making beer called for 1 and 1/2pounds of malt. May try that next time. I also know that stouts do nothave as high an alcohol content as ales. After a couple of hours, it isfermenting nicely.I put my first 20-oz bottle of sarsaparilla and my first 2-liter bottleof cider in the fridge today after 4 days of fermentation. I plan ontrying them and testing them with my hydrometer in 2 or 3 days.By the way, my hydrometer showed an intial specific gravity of 1.065 or9% potential alcohol. These is with a large can of concetrated applejuice, water topped of to 90% full and 1 cup of sugar. Are othersgetting a different initial reading with these percentages. Perhapsthere is something wrong with my hydrometer and not my stout?Not matter how these things turn out, I am enjoying making them. Andthe little fizz that escaped when I changed bottle caps on my cidertoday was delicious!--- "eezzcap" wrote:>>> I got some good advice from a very helpful person at my local brewshop> (http://www.arborwine.com ). I was going to> pick up a can of John Bull Hopped Brown Ale because I thought it would> be the easiest without having to cook anything and I would be able to> follow the simple directions that came with the e-z caps. Half a can> without any sugars would work for two 2-liter bottles, but I was toldan> open can would not last for more than a week. I may try this method in> the future unless the one he suggested below is unbelievable. The can> of John Bull costs $16.00 with yeast and hops included and would make2> gallons or approximately 4 liters.>> For a 1 gallon batch (approximately two 2-liter bottles), he suggesteda> 1-pound bag of Muntons spray malt (pale, amber or dark depending onwhat> you are making), 1/2 or 1 whole package of ale yeast, 2/5 of an ounceof> hops (1/5 bittering and 1/5 finishing). These ingredients cost $12.75> to make 2 gallons or approximately 4 liters (That would include two> bags of malt, 1 ounce package of hops, and 1 package of yeast). You> could add other ingredients based on what kind of beer you would like.> For example IORGINAL POSTER: eezzcap

I got some good advice from a very helpful person at my local brewshop (http://www.arborwine.com). I was going to pick up a can of John Bull Hopped Brown Ale because I thought it would be the easiest without having to cook anything and I would be able to follow the simple directions that came with the e-z caps. Half a can without any sugars would work for two 2-liter bottles, but I was told an open can would not last for more than a week. I may try this method in the future unless the one he suggested below is unbelievable. The can of John Bull costs $16.00 with yeast and hops included and would make 2 gallons or approximately 4 liters.For a 1 gallon batch (approximately two 2-liter bottles), he suggested a 1-pound bag of Muntons spray malt (pale, amber or dark depending on what you are making), 1/2 or 1 whole package of ale yeast, 2/5 of an ounce of hops (1/5 bittering and 1/5 finishing). These ingredients cost $12.75 to make 2 gallons or approximately 4 liters (That would include two bags of malt, 1 ounce package of hops, and 1 package of yeast). You could add other ingredients based on what kind of beer you would like. For example I will place an 1/8oz of chocolate malt in a hopping bag until my pot begins to boil and then remove it. And I may add a cup of coffee to one of my bottles after adding the wort. I like this method because I am not making someone else's beer but my own depending on how I experiment and alter it. I can also make 1 gallon batches of different beers all at the same time while experimenting and not be stuck with 5 gallons of something that I really screwed up. The only drawback is the cooking time for each batch.Here are the basic cooking directions: (Of course follow the directions for pitching the yeast on your yeast packet and sanitize everything). 1. Boil the water 2. Add mash and bittering hops and boil for 45 minutes (Watch and stir) 3. Add the finishing hops for 10 to 15 minutes and boil. 4. Cool covered pot quickly in an ice bath in your sink. 5. Poor yeast and the wort (when cooled to a temperature your yeast will survive in) into your bottles. 6. Ferment for 7 days and then clarify.On the other hand, my cider is coming along nicely. I am going to begin calrifying a different bottle every 2 days starting after the fourth day of fermentation to see which alcohol level I like the best. Several of my sarsaparilla bottles have began to get firm (one is very hard) and one does not seem to be much firmer after about 3 days. The directions state 4 to 6 days to carbonate, so I will see what will happen. I will update my results.--- In E-Z-Caps@yahoogroups.com, ""Willum"" wrote:>> On the Sasparilla, patience. Check it daily, might take a couple> days since it has no nutrients. While you are at the brew shop> picking up ale yeast, etc. ask them about fermentation time and> clarifying. I've made very little beer, so I dont want to lead you> astray. Trust your experts. Have fun with it!>>> --- In E-Z-Caps@yahoogroups.com, ""eezzcap"" eezzcap@ wrote:> >> >> > Ok I have some cider fermenting with the e-z caps and e-z cap yeast> for> > 24 hours. The botlles are firm and it looks like it is going well.> I> > also have some sarsaparilla carbonating using regular bottle caps> and> > champagne yeast. I followed the directions extremely carefully and> used> > a digital thermometer when pitching the yeast. The sarsaparilla> bottles> > are not firm yet. Is this a problem? Should I try the e-z cap yeast> > next time?> >> &gORGINAL POSTER: eezzcap

On the Sasparilla, patience. Check it daily, might take a coupledays since it has no nutrients. While you are at the brew shoppicking up ale yeast, etc. ask them about fermentation time andclarifying. I've made very little beer, so I dont want to lead youastray. Trust your experts. Have fun with it!--- "eezzcap" wrote:>>> Ok I have some cider fermenting with the e-z caps and e-z cap yeastfor> 24 hours. The botlles are firm and it looks like it is going well.I> also have some sarsaparilla carbonating using regular bottle capsand> champagne yeast. I followed the directions extremely carefully andused> a digital thermometer when pitching the yeast. The sarsaparillabottles> are not firm yet. Is this a problem? Should I try the e-z cap yeast> next time?>> I am going to one of my local brew shops tomorrow to pick up somemalt,> ale yeast, and hops if the malt is unhopped. Is there a way to tell> when the yeast is done fermenting because, I would rather not add> anything to the beer to stop fermentation and I would like tobottle it?> Can I clarify outside of the fridge and then bottle it or should I> clarify in the fridge first? Also, if I am fairly certain that theyeast> is dead, can I store the bottles out of the fridge after claryfyingthe> beer and rebottling? Will this ruin the taste?>> I am also picking up some grolsch style flip top bottle to bottlesince> the glass is thicker. These are them:>> E-Z Cap Flip Tops or Flexicap Cobalt> >> height="50" width="50" > >>> --- In E-Z-Caps@yahoogroups.com, "Willum" wrote:> >> > WoW!, Lots of questions, and that's great!> >> > You will get getter beer flavor using ale yeasts. Ale yeasts> > typicaly have about 6-8% alcohol tolerance. They will usually brew> > to completion in about a week or so. The EZ cap yeast yeast more> > resembles a champaign type yeast, in that the yeast has an alcohol> > tolerance of about 15-18% when you let it brew out completely.> > Getting more alcohol means more time, to the tune of about 1% ABV> > (Alcohol By Volume) per day.> >> > Refridgeration:> > Refridgeration does NOT stop fermentation, it just slows it down.> > Cold kind of hibernates the yeast, but it doesn't kill it. Thereare> > a couple of ways to kill the yeast 1. Alcohol poisoning -different> > strains of yeast have different alcohol tolernaces. When the yeast> > makes enough alcohol that its environment gets to its tolerance,the> > yeast dies. 2. Starvation - when the yeast runs out of sugar toeat,> > it dies. 3. Heat - If the yeast gets upORGINAL POSTER: willum

Can I use the same environment for beer as wine? Do I have to clean up anydifferently?--- Willum wrote:> WoW!, Lots of questions, and that's great!>> You will get getter beer flavor using ale yeasts. Ale yeasts> typicaly have about 6-8% alcohol tolerance. They will usually brew> to completion in about a week or so. The EZ cap yeast yeast more> resembles a champaign type yeast, in that the yeast has an alcohol> tolerance of about 15-18% when you let it brew out completely.> Getting more alcohol means more time, to the tune of about 1% ABV> (Alcohol By Volume) per day.>> Refridgeration:> Refridgeration does NOT stop fermentation, it just slows it down.> Cold kind of hibernates the yeast, but it doesn't kill it. There are> a couple of ways to kill the yeast 1. Alcohol poisoning - different> strains of yeast have different alcohol tolernaces. When the yeast> makes enough alcohol that its environment gets to its tolerance, the> yeast dies. 2. Starvation - when the yeast runs out of sugar to eat,> it dies. 3. Heat - If the yeast gets up to a certain temperature,> like 150 degrees Farenheit, it'll die. Unfortunately, this severely> affects the flavor of whatever has been brewed.>> There is a way to stop fermentation if the brewing process> hasnt "naturally" killed the yeast. You can add preservatives like> potasium sorbate or sulfites to your brew. This is the way most> commercially produced wine is stabilized, but it presents 2 problems.> By adding chemicals to the wine, it changes the flavor. Maybe not> much, but some. The other concern is a lot more important. Some> people are allergic to the sulfites that are used to kill the yeast.> If you do use sulfites to kill the yeast, make sure you tell everyone> who tries your beverage that it contains sulfites. Be sure to label> the bottles as well.>> Refridgeration does slow down fermentation enough that you can> store "unfinished" brews in the 'fridge. Do not store ezcaps on> their side, they WILL leak. That's what they are designed to do, let> stuff out when there is sufficient pressure. If you are going to> store stuff on it's side, remove the ezcap and put the regular cap> back on it. As long as it's in the 'fridge, you should be OK.>> The "best" malt extracts are a matter of personal preference, like> saying the best cola is Coke or Pepsi. Do both and decide!>> If you make the sasparilla without an ezcap, only let it brew for a> couple days, then hit the fridge. Too long will make too much> alcohol (yes, there is such a thing!), and without the pressure> release valve of the ezcap, you might blow up the bottle. Big mess> and no fun. If you want to make an alcoholic soda, use the ezcap and> let it brew out for a week or two.>> Keep experimenting, and let us know what you find out.>> Willum>>> --- In E-Z-Caps@yahoogroups.com, "eezzcap" wrote:> >> > I just received my ez caps today. I am goiORGINAL POSTER: kevin

Ok I have some cider fermenting with the e-z caps and e-z cap yeast for 24 hours. The botlles are firm and it looks like it is going well. I also have some sarsaparilla carbonating using regular bottle caps and champagne yeast. I followed the directions extremely carefully and used a digital thermometer when pitching the yeast. The sarsaparilla bottles are not firm yet. Is this a problem? Should I try the e-z cap yeast next time?I am going to one of my local brew shops tomorrow to pick up some malt, ale yeast, and hops if the malt is unhopped. Is there a way to tell when the yeast is done fermenting because, I would rather not add anything to the beer to stop fermentation and I would like to bottle it? Can I clarify outside of the fridge and then bottle it or should I clarify in the fridge first? Also, if I am fairly certain that the yeast is dead, can I store the bottles out of the fridge after claryfying the beer and rebottling? Will this ruin the taste?I am also picking up some grolsch style flip top bottle to bottle since the glass is thicker. These are them:E-Z Cap Flip Tops or Flexicap Cobalt --- In E-Z-Caps@yahoogroups.com, ""Willum"" wrote:>> WoW!, Lots of questions, and that's great!>> You will get getter beer flavor using ale yeasts. Ale yeasts> typicaly have about 6-8% alcohol tolerance. They will usually brew> to completion in about a week or so. The EZ cap yeast yeast more> resembles a champaign type yeast, in that the yeast has an alcohol> tolerance of about 15-18% when you let it brew out completely.> Getting more alcohol means more time, to the tune of about 1% ABV> (Alcohol By Volume) per day.>> Refridgeration:> Refridgeration does NOT stop fermentation, it just slows it down.> Cold kind of hibernates the yeast, but it doesn't kill it. There are> a couple of ways to kill the yeast 1. Alcohol poisoning - different> strains of yeast have different alcohol tolernaces. When the yeast> makes enough alcohol that its environment gets to its tolerance, the> yeast dies. 2. Starvation - when the yeast runs out of sugar to eat,> it dies. 3. Heat - If the yeast gets up to a certain temperature,> like 150 degrees Farenheit, it'll die. Unfortunately, this severely> affects the flavor of whatever has been brewed.>> There is a way to stop fermentation if the brewing process> hasnt ""naturally"" killed the yeast. You can add preservatives like> potasium sorbate or sulfites to your brew. This is the way most> commercially produced wine is stabilized, but it presents 2 problems.> By adding chemicals to the wine, it changes the flavor. Maybe not> much, but some. The other concern is a lot more important. Some> people are allergic to the sulfites that are used to kill the yeast.> If you do use sulfites to kill the yeast, make sure you tell everyone> who tries your beverage that it contains sulfites. Be sure to label> the bottles as well.>> Refridgeration does slow down fermentation enough that you can> store ""unfinished"" brews in the 'fridge. Do not store ezcaps on> their side, they WILL leak. That's what they are designed to do, let> stuff out when there is sufficient pressure. If you are going to> store stuff on it's side, remove the ezcap and put the regular cap> back on it. As long as it's in the 'fridge, you should be OK.>> The ""best"" malt extracts are a matter of personal preference, like>ORGINAL POSTER: eezzcap

WoW!, Lots of questions, and that's great!You will get getter beer flavor using ale yeasts. Ale yeaststypicaly have about 6-8% alcohol tolerance. They will usually brewto completion in about a week or so. The EZ cap yeast yeast moreresembles a champaign type yeast, in that the yeast has an alcoholtolerance of about 15-18% when you let it brew out completely.Getting more alcohol means more time, to the tune of about 1% ABV(Alcohol By Volume) per day.Refridgeration:Refridgeration does NOT stop fermentation, it just slows it down.Cold kind of hibernates the yeast, but it doesn't kill it. There area couple of ways to kill the yeast 1. Alcohol poisoning - differentstrains of yeast have different alcohol tolernaces. When the yeastmakes enough alcohol that its environment gets to its tolerance, theyeast dies. 2. Starvation - when the yeast runs out of sugar to eat,it dies. 3. Heat - If the yeast gets up to a certain temperature,like 150 degrees Farenheit, it'll die. Unfortunately, this severelyaffects the flavor of whatever has been brewed.There is a way to stop fermentation if the brewing processhasnt "naturally" killed the yeast. You can add preservatives likepotasium sorbate or sulfites to your brew. This is the way mostcommercially produced wine is stabilized, but it presents 2 problems.By adding chemicals to the wine, it changes the flavor. Maybe notmuch, but some. The other concern is a lot more important. Somepeople are allergic to the sulfites that are used to kill the yeast.If you do use sulfites to kill the yeast, make sure you tell everyonewho tries your beverage that it contains sulfites. Be sure to labelthe bottles as well.Refridgeration does slow down fermentation enough that you canstore "unfinished" brews in the 'fridge. Do not store ezcaps ontheir side, they WILL leak. That's what they are designed to do, letstuff out when there is sufficient pressure. If you are going tostore stuff on it's side, remove the ezcap and put the regular capback on it. As long as it's in the 'fridge, you should be OK.The "best" malt extracts are a matter of personal preference, likesaying the best cola is Coke or Pepsi. Do both and decide!If you make the sasparilla without an ezcap, only let it brew for acouple days, then hit the fridge. Too long will make too muchalcohol (yes, there is such a thing!), and without the pressurerelease valve of the ezcap, you might blow up the bottle. Big messand no fun. If you want to make an alcoholic soda, use the ezcap andlet it brew out for a week or two.Keep experimenting, and let us know what you find out.Willum--- "eezzcap" wrote:>> I just received my ez caps today. I am going to start some cider> right away.>> I was wondering about making beer. Would I get a better flavorusing> ale yeasts or other yeasts? I would probably have to allow these to> ferment longer, correct? Also if I use the ezcap yeast, would Ihave> to refrigerate to stop fermentation? I don't have a huge> refrigerator and I don't think that I could store many 2 liter> bottles unless I could store them horizontal which would not allow> the sediment to settle to thORGINAL POSTER: willum

I just received my ez caps today. I am going to start some ciderright away.I was wondering about making beer. Would I get a better flavor usingale yeasts or other yeasts? I would probably have to allow these toferment longer, correct? Also if I use the ezcap yeast, would I haveto refrigerate to stop fermentation? I don't have a hugerefrigerator and I don't think that I could store many 2 literbottles unless I could store them horizontal which would not allowthe sediment to settle to the bottom? Can I store brews withoutrefrigerating somehow? Would using an ale yeast and waiting forfermentation to end and not refrigerate help so that there is not anexcessive alcohol content that might alter the taste? Anyrecomendation for the best malt extracts to use? Alexanders,Coopers, etc?I am also going to be using Rainbow Flavors Sarsparilla extract tomake sarsparilla soda. The directions state that this can be made in2 liter bottles with regular caps and champagne yeast. Would therebe advantages/disadvantages to using the ezcaps and/or ezcap yeast?Would ezcap yeast result in soda with alcohol? I would also beintersted in making an alcoholic sarsparilla to see what it wouldtaste like, is there a way?ORGINAL POSTER: eezzcap

If it only had pop in it, rinsing it out with tap water issufficient. The EZ Caps yeast begins fermenting immediately, and thealcohol it produces inhibits the growth of bacteria.At 01:04 PM 7/16/2006 +0000, you wrote:>Any suggestions for cleaning bottles prior to use?>>>>>>>Yahoo! Groups Links>>>>ORGINAL POSTER: steve

Any suggestions for cleaning bottles prior to use?ORGINAL POSTER: eezzcap

If you click on the "Files" section in the Yahoo group, you will findthem.--- candy castle wrote:>>>> Justforfun69 wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:*{behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } You can't "over brew" it. It willcontinue to ferment until it can't ferment anymore. Most of that hasto do with where you put it and the temperature around it. If youshake it and there is still a hiss coming out of the top, you cankeep fermenting it.>> As for "amount of yeast". It matters not. The yeast is going tomultiple a billion times over in a day or so anyhow as long as youput your brew in a warn (not hot) place> Measurements on yeast are meaningless.>>> --------------------------------->> From: E-Z-Caps@yahoogroups.com [mailto:E-Z-Caps@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Dee N Ken Shupinski> Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 1:55 PM> To: E-Z-Caps@yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [E-Z-Caps] Re: My hard ice tea>>> I used 1/8 tsp, yeast that came with ez caps, 1 cup sugar. It isstill fermenting with good foam layer on surface. Not sure if Ishould put it in the fridge now or what. It has been 17 days.>> WV Princess wrote:> How much yeast do you use with your hard iced tea recipe? Doyou use the yeast that comes with the E-Z Caps or a different type?>>>> Also, if anyone would like to share their hard lemonade recipeI would appreciate it.>>>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>> hi i was wondering if all these recipes are for E-Z caps orwhat and if so how do you just do them the regular way. also i am newand cant figure out how to get to the recipes>>>>>> Message: 1> Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 10:02 am (PDT)> From: "Justforfun69" justforfun69@...> Subject: Re: My hard ice tea>>> I have had excellent luck with hard ice tea using already sweetenediced tea> (which I make myself using 1 1/2 cups of sugar to a gallon of verystrong> tea). I add 1 cup of sugar to the 2-liter bottle along with about ahalf cup> of apple juice (for added nutrients) then top off with my home madetea. I> Ferment the concoction for 2 weeks. I end up with a high alcoholcontent tea> that is still quite sweet and flavorful. I start with a prettystrong tea,> not the store bought stuff that tends to be rather weak. Trying thesame> thing with a store bought sweet tea ended up inORGINAL POSTER: willum